California Cosmetology Cheat Sheet

Safety and Infection Control

30% of exam
Decontamination Levels Disinfectant Container Rules Storage and Labeling Federal Agencies California Establishment Rules Cleaning vs Disinfection

Client Consultation and Hair, Skin, and Nail Analysis

19% of exam
Hair and Nail Structure Refer Out or Proceed Tests Before Service Service or Refer Disorder vs Disease

Chemical Texture Services

12% of exam
Texture Service Chemistry Chemical Service Picker Thio vs Hydroxide Disulfide bonds

Haircoloring

10% of exam
Color Theory Fast Facts Level vs Tone Developer Volumes Neutralizing Pairs

Hair Removal

8% of exam
Hair Removal Rules Depilation vs Epilation Wax temperature test No double dipping

Nail Care

8% of exam
Nail Service Safety Foot Spa Disinfection Foot Spa Cycle Whirlpool vs Pipeless

Skin Care

4% of exam
Skin Scope Limits Epidermis vs Dermis Massage Movements Invasive procedures

Eyelash and Eyebrow

4% of exam
Lash and Brow Safety Cyanoacrylate adhesive Coal-tar dye warning Isolated lash bonding

Haircutting

3% of exam
Cutting Tool Safety Razor blade disposal Shear disinfection Clipper disinfection

Hairstyling

2% of exam
Thermal Styling Precautions Heat test on cloth Textured hairstyling Blowdrying procedures

Quick Facts

Exam Cosmetologist Theory
Board California Barbering and Cosmetology
Vendor PSI Services
Questions 110 (100 scored)
Time 2 hours
Pass Criterion-referenced standard
Pass rate 67% average in 2025
Fee $125 exam plus license
Training 1,000 hours or apprenticeship
Practical Eliminated January 2022
Blueprint Effective April 1, 2026
Languages English, Spanish, Vietnamese, Korean, Chinese

Decontamination Ladder SA

Clean, then disinfect, then sterilize
Clean: soap and water Disinfect: EPA product Sterilize: autoclave only

Cleaning vs Disinfection SA

Cleaning

Soap and water
Removes visible debris
Always the first step

Disinfection

EPA-registered product
Destroys pathogens
Needs a clean tool
Remove debris, then kill

Decontamination Picker SA

Non-electrical tool → Clean, then immerse ( Liquid disinfectant )
Shears → Clean, then spray/wipe ( Never immerse )
Clippers or hot tools → Spray or wipe ( Electrical )
Buffer or pumice → Discard after client ( Cannot disinfect )
Reusable electrolysis tool → Autoclave or dry heat ( FDA listed )
Used electrolysis needle → Sharps container ( Biohazard waste )
Foot basin liner → Discard immediately ( Never reused )
Used towel → Closed container ( Launder before reuse )

Decontamination Levels SA

Cleaning Soap, water, debris removal
Disinfection Chemicals destroy pathogens
Sterilization Destroys all microbial life
Required order Clean before you disinfect
Non-electrical tools Total immersion, liquid disinfectant Immerse
Shears Spray or wipe only
Electrical tools Spray or wipe disinfect
Electrolysis tools Autoclave or dry heat Sterilize
Dry step New clean paper towel

Biggest Three Topics SA

Safety 30, Consultation 19, Texture 12
Safety and Infection Control Consultation and Analysis Chemical Texture Services Together 61 percent

Disinfection vs Sterilization SA

Disinfection

Liquid immersion
Salon tools
Kills most pathogens

Sterilization

Autoclave or dry heat
Electrolysis tools
Kills all microbial life
Salon tools vs needles

Disinfectant Container Rules SA

Container label Reads 'Disinfectant Solution'
EPA claims Bactericidal, fungicidal, virucidal All three
Mixing Per manufacturer directions
Volume Enough to immerse tools
Cover Covered at all times
Change solution When cloudy or debris
Removing tools Gloves or tongs required
Empty bottle Manufacturer container stays onsite

Storage and Labeling SA

Disinfected tools Covered, labeled 'Clean'
Used tools Labeled 'Dirty' or 'Soiled'
New supplies Covered place labeled 'New'
Pouches, holsters No tools carried on uniform
Used towels Closed container until laundered
Clean towels Clean closed cabinet storage
Laundry heat 160F water, 25 minutes
Hair waste Covered waste container

Federal Agencies and Bans SA

OSHA Workplace safety, hazard communication
EPA Registers salon disinfectants
FDA Regulates cosmetics and devices
CDC Standard precautions guidance
SDS Manufacturer hazard document
Methyl methacrylate Banned from the premises
Methylene chloride Banned from the premises
FDA-banned cosmetics Prohibited on the premises

California Establishment Rules SA

Neck strip Cape never touches neck
Headrest Clean towel or paper
Shampoo bowl Cleansed after each shampoo
Treatment table Fresh paper, towel, sheet
Pencil cosmetics Sharpen before each use
Product containers Clean, closed, correctly labeled
Decanting Do not contaminate remainder
Handwashing Wash before each client
In charge Licensee, never an apprentice
Natural hair braiding Exempt unless cutting/chemicals
Threading Exempt from license

Disorder vs Disease CO

Disorder

Non-infectious change
Ridges, white spots
Service may proceed

Disease

Infection present
Fungus or paronychia
Refuse and refer
Work around vs refer

Service or Refer CO

Contagious scalp condition → Refuse and refer ( No diagnosis )
Broken or inflamed skin → No service there ( Board rule )
Your hands are broken → Wear gloves ( Board rule )
Client on isotretinoin → No waxing ( Fragile skin )
Diabetes with neuropathy → Physician clearance ( Pedicure risk )
Aniline color requested → Patch test first ( 24-48 hours )
Unknown home color → Test for metallic salts ( Strand sample )
Non-contagious dandruff → Proceed with care ( Adjust products )

Hair, Skin, Nail Structure CO

Cuticle Overlapping protective outer layer
Cortex Melanin, strength, disulfide bonds
Medulla Innermost, often absent
Porosity Absorbs moisture and chemicals
Elasticity Stretch and recovery
Texture Diameter of one strand
Epidermis Outer non-living layer
Dermis Living layer below epidermis
Matrix Produces the nail plate
Lunula Visible whitish matrix
Eponychium Living skin sealing plate
Hyponychium Skin under free edge

Patch Test vs Strand Test CO

Patch test

Allergy screen
24-48 hours ahead
Behind ear or elbow

Strand test

Predicts the result
Checks processing time
Done at the service
Safety vs result

Refer Out or Proceed CO

Pediculosis capitis Head lice, refuse service Refer
Tinea capitis Scalp ringworm, refuse service Refer
Scabies Mite infestation, refuse service Refer
Impetigo Bacterial infection, refuse service Refer
Onychomycosis Nail fungus, refuse service Refer
Paronychia Infected nail fold, refer Refer
Pityriasis Dandruff, service may proceed Proceed
Alopecia areata Non-contagious, service proceeds Proceed
Trichoptilosis Split ends, service proceeds Proceed
Broken skin No service on area
Naming a disease Outside cosmetology scope

Tests Before Service CO

Predisposition test Aniline color allergy screen
Patch timing 24-48 hours before service
Patch site Behind ear or elbow
Positive reaction No color service
Strand test Predicts result and timing
Elasticity test Wet strand stretch recovery
Metallic salt test Peroxide and ammonia sample
Intake form Medications, allergies, prior services
Consent form Written record of risks

Thio vs Hydroxide TE

Thio

Ammonium thioglycolate
Breaks disulfide bonds
Separate neutralizer

Hydroxide

Sodium or guanidine
Forms lanthionine bonds
Acid-balanced shampoo
Never layer the two

Chemical Service Picker TE

Firm curl, resistant hair → Alkaline wave ( Thioglycolate )
Softer curl, fragile hair → True acid wave ( Added heat )
Permanent straightening → Hydroxide relaxer ( Lanthionization )
Hair already hydroxide-relaxed → Never apply thio ( Breakage )
Relaxer retouch → New growth only ( No overlap )
Neutralize yellow tone → Violet-based toner ( Complementary )

Texture Service Chemistry TE

Bond broken Disulfide (cystine) cross-links
Alkaline wave Ammonium thioglycolate, room temperature
True acid wave Glyceryl monothioglycolate, added heat
Neutralizer Oxidizes and rebuilds bonds
Hydroxide relaxer Sodium, potassium, lithium, guanidine
Lanthionization Irreversible single-bond conversion
Hydroxide stop Acid-balanced neutralizing shampoo
Thio relaxer Thioglycolate, separate neutralizer
Retouch rule New growth only
Overlap Causes severe breakage
Scalp protection Apply away from scalp

Neutralizing Pairs CO

Violet kills yellow, blue kills orange
Violet cancels yellow Blue cancels orange Green cancels red

Level vs Tone CO

Level

Light or dark
Numbered scale
Sets lift needed

Tone

Warm or cool
Chooses the base
Neutralized by opposite
How light vs which shade

Color Theory Fast Facts CO

Level Lightness or darkness
Tone Warmth or coolness
Violet cancels Yellow
Blue cancels Orange
Green cancels Red
10 volume About 3% peroxide
20 volume About 6% peroxide
30 volume About 9% peroxide
40 volume About 12% peroxide
Metallic salts React violently with peroxide
Coal-tar caution FDA warning label required
Toner Adjusts tone after lightening

Developer Volumes CO

10=3, 20=6, 30=9, 40=12 percent
10 volume about 3% 20 volume about 6% 30 volume about 9% 40 volume about 12%

Depilation vs Epilation RE

Depilation

Removes at the surface
Shaving, depilatory cream
Fast regrowth

Epilation

Removes from follicle
Waxing, sugaring, tweezing
Slower regrowth
Surface vs follicle

Hair Removal Rules RE

Depilation Removes hair at surface
Epilation Removes hair from follicle
Soft wax Fabric strip removal
Hard wax Removed without a strip
Sugaring Paste epilation method
Threading Twisted thread epilation
Temperature test Test on your wrist
Application direction With the hair growth
Strip removal Against the hair growth
Double dipping Never reuse an applicator
Isotretinoin skin No waxing, refer out

Foot Spa Three Cycles NA

Each client, each day, each week
Client: clean and disinfect Day: detergent then disinfect Week: 6-hour soak Log every cycle

Whirlpool vs Pipeless NA

Whirlpool

Circulating water system
Screen removed daily
Weekly 6-hour soak

Pipeless

Footplate and impeller
Parts scrubbed each client
Weekly 6-hour soak
Pipes vs impeller parts

Foot Spa Cycle NA

After each client → Clean, disinfect 10 minutes ( Log it )
End of each day → Detergent, then disinfectant ( 10 minutes each )
Once each week → Leave disinfectant 6 hours ( Then flush )
Using disposable liners → Discard, clean basin ( Log it )
Spa out of service → Sign plus log note ( Keep sanitary )

Nail Service Safety NA

Liquid MMA Poisonous, banned on premises
EMA Accepted monomer alternative
Metal instruments Only nail and cuticle work
Razor-edged callus tool Prohibited in California
Needle-like extractor Prohibited in California
Ventilation Source capture at table
Filing dust Particulate mask while filing
Buffers, pumice Discard after one client
Nail brushes Clean, dry, store covered

Foot Spa Disinfection NA

After each client Drain, scrub, rinse, disinfect
Contact time At least 10 minutes
End of day Detergent, then disinfectant
Weekly cycle Disinfectant sits 6 hours
Log entries Date, time, initials, cycle
Log access Shown to client on request
Basin liners Single use, never reused
Liner stock Five liners per basin
Out of service Sign plus log notation
Final wipe New clean paper towel

Massage Movements SK

Effleurage, petrissage, tapotement
Effleurage: gliding Petrissage: kneading Tapotement: tapping

Epidermis vs Dermis SK

Epidermis

Outer non-living layer
Exfoliation allowed
Within licensed scope

Dermis

Living layer
Beyond licensed scope
Breaching is invasive
Scope stops at epidermis

Skin Scope Limits SK

Exfoliation limit Epidermis only
Invasive procedure Anything beyond the epidermis
Visible muscle contraction Prohibited use of electricity
Metal needles Prohibited except electrolysis
Physician-only products Outside cosmetology scope
Exfoliation products Over-the-counter only
Effleurage Light gliding stroking
Petrissage Kneading that lifts tissue
Tapotement Percussion tapping movement
Hot towels Safe application and removal

Lash and Brow Safety LA

Lash adhesive Cyanoacrylate, patch test first
Bonding rule Isolated natural lash only
Adhesive contact Keep off lid and eye
Permanent lash dye No approved color additive
Coal-tar dye label Not for lashes or brows
Tinting Follow manufacturer instructions
Remover Keep away from eye

Cutting Tool Safety CU

Razor Guard plus fresh blade
Blade disposal Puncture-resistant sharps container
Shears Palmed or closed when carried
Clippers Spray or wipe disinfect
Elevation Angle raised from head
Guideline Section that sets length
Curly hair Allow for shrinkage

Thermal Styling Precautions ST

Heat test Test on damp cloth
Fine or porous hair Lower the temperature
Scalp shield Hard rubber comb barrier
Blowdrying Keep the nozzle moving
Extensions Application, maintenance, removal
Locking, braiding Textured hairstyling procedures
Hairpieces Application, maintenance, removal

Common Traps

Clean vs disinfect

Cleaning removes debris ≠ Disinfection destroys pathogens

Immerse vs wipe

Non-electrical tools immerse ≠ Shears and clippers wipe

Disorder vs disease

Disorder allows service ≠ Disease requires referral

Depilation vs epilation

Depilatory removes surface hair ≠ Waxing removes the root

Thio vs hydroxide

Thio bonds can reform ≠ Hydroxide change is permanent

Level vs volume

Level describes hair darkness ≠ Volume describes peroxide strength

Scope vs medicine

Cosmetologists recommend referral ≠ Only physicians diagnose

Practical vs theory

Practical ended in 2022 ≠ Written theory exam only

Scoring standard

Criterion-referenced pass standard ≠ 2026 outline omits percentage

Last Minute

1. Safety and Infection Control = 30%
2. Consultation and Analysis = 19%
3. Chemical Texture 12%; Haircoloring 10%
4. 110 questions; 100 are scored
5. Two hours; no practical exam
6. Clean first, then disinfect
7. Shears: wipe, never immerse
8. Foot spa disinfectant: 10 minutes
9. Weekly foot spa soak: 6 hours
10. Patch test 24-48 hours ahead
11. Violet cancels yellow; blue cancels orange
12. Never relax over relaxed hair
13. Exfoliate the epidermis only
14. No methyl methacrylate on premises
15. 1,000 school hours or 3,200 apprentice
16. $125 exam and license fee
17. Passing standard is criterion-referenced

California Cosmetology

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