Cosmetology License Cheat Sheet

Scientific Concepts

35% of exam
Infection Control Anatomy Chemistry Electricity Bacteriology

Hair Care + Services

45% of exam
Hair Structure Cutting Color Chemical Texture Scalp Disorders

Skin Care + Services

10% of exam
Skin Anatomy Facials Hair Removal Contraindications Makeup

Nail Care + Services

10% of exam
Nail Anatomy Manicure Pedicure Enhancements Nail Disorders

Quick Facts

Exam NIC Cosmetology Theory
Sponsor NIC + State Boards
Questions 110 (100 scored)
Time 90 minutes
Pass 75% (state varies)
Fee $50-$150
Delivery CBT via PSI
Hours Set by state

Hair pH Range SC

Hair sits 4.5 to 5.5
Below 7: acidic Above 7: alkaline Acidic: smooth

Sanitize vs Disinfect vs Sterilize SC

Sanitize

Cleans surface
Soap and water
Lowest level

Sterilize

Kills all microbes
Autoclave only
Highest level
Disinfect lives between

Disinfection Picker SC

Penetrates skin → Autoclave ( Sterilize )
Multi-use tool → EPA disinfectant ( 10 min )
Touched blood → Tuberculocidal ( Or discard )
Porous file → Single-use ( Throw away )
Pedicure tub → Disinfect 10 min ( After client )
Linens → Hot wash launder ( Per client )
Skin spill → Stop, glove, clean ( OSHA )

Infection Control Levels SC

Sanitation Cleaning, lowest level
Disinfection Kills most pathogens EPA
Sterilization Kills all microorganisms
Autoclave Steam, 250-270 F
Wet sanitizer Submerge disinfectant jar
Contact time Usually 10 minutes
Single-use Discard after client

Pathogens + Safety SC

Bacteria One-celled microorganisms
Cocci Round bacteria
Bacilli Rod-shaped bacteria
Spirilla Spiral bacteria
Virus Submicroscopic, needs host
HBV / HCV / HIV Bloodborne pathogens
Universal Precautions Treat all infectious
SDS Safety Data Sheet

Anatomy + Physiology SC

Integumentary Skin, hair, nails
Epidermis Outer skin layer
Dermis Middle skin layer
Subcutaneous Fat, deepest layer
Sebaceous gland Produces sebum oil
Sudoriferous gland Produces sweat
Melanin Pigment, UV defense
Sternocleidomastoid Side neck muscle

Chemistry Basics SC

pH scale 0-14, 7 neutral
Hair pH 4.5-5.5 acidic
Alkaline Above 7, swells cuticle
Oxidation Adds oxygen, lifts
Reduction Adds hydrogen, softens
Emulsion Oil + water blend
Surfactant Allows water mixing
Keratin Hair, nail protein

Electricity + Light SC

Galvanic Direct current, facials
Anaphoresis Positive pole, products
Cataphoresis Negative pole, soften
High-frequency Tesla, antiseptic
UV-A Cures gel polish
UV-C Germicidal lamp
Infrared Heat, deep penetration

ABCs of Color HA

Base + Tone + Lift
Base: level Tone: warm/cool Lift: volume

Tinea vs Lice vs Dandruff HA

Tinea capitis

Ring lesions
Fungal infection
Refer doctor

Pediculosis

Live lice
Nits on shaft
Refer doctor
Dandruff is flakes

Color Formula Picker HA

Cover gray, no lift → 10 vol ( Deposit )
Lift 1-2 levels → 20 vol ( Standard )
Lift 2-3 levels → 30 vol ( Highlights )
Lift 3-4 levels → 40 vol ( High-lift only )
Pre-lighten dark → Lightener ( Then tone )
Cancel brassy → Violet toner ( Cool result )
Refresh ends → Demi gloss ( No ammonia )

Hair Structure HA

Cuticle Outer scale layer
Cortex Middle, holds pigment
Medulla Innermost core
Anagen Growth phase
Catagen Transition phase
Telogen Resting, shedding phase
Porosity Absorbs moisture, chemicals
Elasticity Stretch and return

4 Ps of Consultation HA

Picture, Plan, Patch, Proceed
Picture: goal Plan: formula Patch: 24-48 hr Proceed: service

Lightener vs Toner HA

Lightener

Removes pigment
Adds lift
Bleach product

Toner

Adds tone
No lift
Cancels brass
Lift first, then tone

Chemical Texture Picker HA

Curl resistant hair → Alkaline thio ( Cold wave )
Color-treated hair → Acid wave ( Gentler )
Coarse curly → Sodium hydroxide ( Lye relaxer )
Fine, sensitive scalp → No-lye relaxer ( Thio base )
Frizz reduction → Keratin smoothing ( Ventilate )
Lash perm needed → Refer specialist ( Scope check )

Haircutting Basics HA

Blunt cut One length, zero elevation
Graduation Stacked, 1-89 degrees
Layered cut 90+ degree elevation
Slithering Shear thinning technique
Slicing Open shears, texture
Razor cut Softer, tapered ends
Apex Highest point head
Guideline First section length

Growth Phases ACT HA

Anagen, Catagen, Telogen
Anagen: grow Catagen: change Telogen: shed

Single vs Double Process HA

Single-process

Lift and deposit
One application
Permanent color

Double-process

Pre-lighten step
Then tone
Blonde transformations
One step vs two

Haircolor + Lightening HA

Level Lightness, 1 dark to 10
Tone Warm, cool, neutral
Primary colors Red, yellow, blue
Complementary Opposite, neutralizes tone
Single-process Color in one application
Double-process Lighten then tone
10 vol Deposit only
20 vol Lifts 1-2 levels
30 vol Lifts 2-3 levels
40 vol High lift, 3-4 levels

Slithering vs Slicing HA

Slithering

Closed shears
Sliding cut
Removes weight

Slicing

Open shears
Long stroke
Adds texture
Closed vs open shears

Chemical Texture HA

Cold wave Thio, alkaline perm
Acid wave GMTG, low pH
Disulfide bond Strongest side bond
Neutralizer Re-forms disulfide bonds
Sodium hydroxide Lye relaxer, strongest
Thio relaxer No-lye, ammonium thio
Keratin smoothing Reduces frizz, formaldehyde
Pre-neutralizing rinse Stops relaxer action

Razor vs Shear HA

Razor cut

Soft, tapered ends
Wet hair only
Removes weight

Shear cut

Blunt, clean ends
Wet or dry
Precise lines
Soft vs blunt

Scalp + Hair Disorders HA

Tinea capitis Scalp ringworm, fungal
Pediculosis capitis Head lice infestation
Dandruff Pityriasis, flaky scalp
Alopecia Hair loss
Trichoptilosis Split ends
Canities Gray hair
Hypertrichosis Excessive hair growth
Folliculitis Inflamed hair follicle

Patch Test vs Strand Test HA

Patch test

Allergy check
Behind ear
24-48 hours

Strand test

Color result check
Tests hair
Same day
Skin vs hair test

RICE Emergency SK

Rest, Ice, Compression, Elevation
Rest: stop Ice: pack Compression: wrap Elevation: raise

Skin + Facials SK

Fitzpatrick I Always burns, never tans
Fitzpatrick VI Never burns, deeply pigmented
Comedo Clogged follicle, blackhead
Milia Pearly keratin cysts
Rosacea Chronic facial redness
AHA Glycolic, lactic acids
BHA Salicylic, oil soluble
Desincrustation Softens, loosens sebum

Hair Removal SK

Soft wax Strip wax, fine hair
Hard wax No strip, sensitive
Threading Twisted cotton thread
Sugaring Paste, applied against growth
Electrolysis Permanent, electric needle
Laser Reduces, melanin target
Accutane No wax, 6 months
Retin-A area Avoid waxing zone

Hard Gel vs Acrylic vs Soft Gel NA

Hard gel

Files off
Light cured
No soak removal

Acrylic

Monomer plus powder
Air cured
File or soak
Soft gel soaks off

Nail Anatomy NA

Nail plate Visible hardened keratin
Nail bed Skin under plate
Matrix Living growth tissue
Lunula White half-moon
Eponychium Living skin around base
Cuticle Dead tissue on plate
Hyponychium Under free edge
Free edge Past fingertip

Nail Services NA

Basic manicure Shape, cuticle, polish
French manicure Pink base, white tip
Paraffin Warm wax conditioning
Acrylic Monomer plus polymer
UV gel Light-cured resin
Dip powder Resin and powder system
Hard gel Files off, no soak
Soft gel Soaks off acetone

Nail Disorders NA

Onychomycosis Fungal nail infection
Onycholysis Lifting from bed
Onychorrhexis Brittle split nails
Paronychia Bacterial fold infection
Hangnail Agnail, torn cuticle
Leukonychia White spots, trauma
Pterygium Cuticle overgrowth
Beau lines Horizontal ridges, illness

Common Traps

Sanitize vs disinfect

Sanitize cleans ≠ Disinfect kills pathogens

Strand vs patch test

Strand checks color ≠ Patch checks allergy

Lightener vs toner

Lightener removes pigment ≠ Toner cancels brass

Cuticle vs eponychium

Cuticle is dead ≠ Eponychium is living

Capes between clients

Never share unprotected ≠ Use neck strip barrier

Cosmetologist scope

No medical diagnosis ≠ Refer skin disease

Tinea vs alopecia

Tinea is fungal ≠ Alopecia is hair loss

Last Minute

1. Weights: 35 / 45 / 10 / 10
2. Sanitize, disinfect, sterilize order
3. Hair pH stays 4.5-5.5
4. Anagen, catagen, telogen sequence
5. Patch test 24-48 hours prior
6. Strand test predicts color result
7. 20 vol lifts 1-2 levels
8. Complementary colors neutralize tone
9. Disulfide bonds, strongest side bond
10. Lye relaxer = sodium hydroxide
11. Refer all contagious skin conditions
12. Universal Precautions, treat all infectious
13. Single-use files, discard after client

Cosmetology License

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