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7.6 Preliminary Tests, Foiling & Highlighting Techniques

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Arizona Barber License Exam

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1 Chapter 1: Introduction & Arizona Barber Licensing Framework

1.1 Arizona Barber License Overview, Exam Format & Board Structure 1.2 Candidate Eligibility, School Hours & Training Pathways 1.3 Examination Registration, Testing Rules & Score Reporting 1.4 Reciprocity, Universal Recognition & Military Provisions

2 Chapter 2: Arizona Statutes, Administrative Rules & Board Regulation

2.1 A.R.S. Title 32, Chapter 5: Definitions, Board Powers & Exemptions 2.2 A.A.C. Title 4, Chapter 10: Display Rules & Infection Control Standards 2.3 Establishment Licensing, Managers, Mobile Facilities & Inspections 2.4 Renewal, Inactive Status & Board Disciplinary Action

3 Chapter 3: Infection Control, Safety & Sanitation Protocols

3.1 Principles of Microbiology, Pathogens & Modes of Transmission 3.2 Cleaning, Disinfection & Sterilization: The 3 Levels of Decontamination 3.3 EPA-Registered Disinfectants, Chemical Efficacy & Quats Safety 3.4 Blood Exposure Incidents, Standard Precautions & OSHA Compliance 3.5 Arizona Barbershop Sanitary Standards, Dispensary Rules & Tool Storage

4 Chapter 4: Trichology, Skin Histology, Disorders & Human Anatomy

4.1 Trichology: Hair Follicle Structure, Composition & Growth Cycles 4.2 Professional Hair Analysis: Texture, Density, Porosity & Elasticity 4.3 Scalp Conditions, Alopecia, Parasitic Infestations & Contagious Diseases 4.4 Skin Histology, Sebaceous Glands & Common Facial Skin Disorders 4.5 Skeletal Anatomy: Bones of the Head, Face, Neck & Shoulders 4.6 Muscles of the Neck & Shoulders, Joints & the Four Body Systems

5 Chapter 5: Professional Barbering Tools, Implements & Equipment

5.1 Professional Shears, Thinning Shears & Ergonomic Cutting Mechanics 5.2 Electric Clippers, Trimmers & Blade Systems: Magnetic, Pivot & Rotary 5.3 Traditional Straight Razors, Changeable Blades, Stropping & Honing 5.4 Thermal Styling Tools, Blow Dryers & Electrical Safety in the Barbershop

6 Chapter 6: Hair Care Services: Cutting, Styling, Hair Care & Enhancements

6.1 Facial Shapes, Head Anatomy, Reference Points & Haircut Design 6.2 Fundamental Haircutting Techniques: Blunt, Graduated & Layered Cuts 6.3 Precision Clipper Cutting: Tapers, Fades, Edging & Flat Tops 6.4 Razor Cutting Techniques, Thinning, Texturizing & Shear-Over-Comb 6.5 Mustache and Beard Design, Facial Hair Shaping & Outlining 6.6 Shampooing, Conditioning, Scalp Treatments & Massage 6.7 Wet Styling, Blow-Dry Styling & Thermal Styling Procedures 6.8 Natural Hair Styling: Braids, Twists & Locs 6.9 Hair Enhancements: Wigs, Hairpieces & Extensions

7 Chapter 7: Chemical Services: Coloring, Lightening & Chemical Texture

7.1 Chemistry Fundamentals & The pH Scale in Barbering 7.2 Hair Coloring Principles & Formulations 7.3 Hair Lightening, Decolorizing Stages & Tonal Balancing 7.4 Permanent Waving Chemistry, Wrapping Methods & Neutralization 7.5 Chemical Hair Relaxers: Sodium Hydroxide vs. Thio & Keratin Smoothing 7.6 Preliminary Tests, Foiling & Highlighting Techniques

8 Chapter 8: Facial Hair, Skin Care Services, Head Shaving & Barbershop Business

8.1 The 14 Standard Shaving Strokes & Face Preparation Protocols 8.2 Professional Facial Treatments, Hot Towels & Massage Manipulations 8.3 Professional Client Consultation, Draping Protocols & Contraindications 8.4 Barbershop Operations, Booth Rental vs. Commission, Taxes & Ethics 8.5 Head Shaving: Preparation, Procedure & Safety 8.6 Light Therapy, Microcurrent & Arizona Device Restrictions 8.7 Client Records, Service Documentation & Release Forms

7.6 Preliminary Tests, Foiling & Highlighting Techniques

Key Takeaways Explain This Topic AI

The predisposition or patch test is performed 24 to 48 hours before an aniline derivative colour service and checks for allergic sensitivity.

The strand test is performed on the day of service and predicts the result, timing and condition, not allergy.

NIC publishes the patch test as the answer to what must be performed first before applying permanent haircolour.

Foiling isolates strands so lightener does not touch surrounding hair; slicing gives a bolder concentrated result and weaving a softer blended one.

A metallic salt test using twenty parts hydrogen peroxide to one part ammonia detects metallic dye that would make a chemical service unsafe.

Last updated: August 2026

Preliminary Tests, Foiling & Highlighting Techniques

Blueprint position: Item III.E.1 requires understanding " preliminary tests (e.g., purposes, uses, applications)" with two named sub-items — (a) predisposition and (b) strand test . Item III.E.4 covers foiling . Both sit inside Hair Care Services, the 40 percent domain on both examinations.

1. The Two Named Preliminary Tests

These two are constantly confused, and the examination relies on that. They answer completely different questions.

Predisposition (patch / skin / allergy) test Strand test (preliminary strand)

Question answered Will this client have an allergic reaction ? What result, timing and condition will this formula give?

When 24 to 48 hours before the service On the day of the service

Where Behind the ear or the inside bend of the elbow On a small, inconspicuous strand, often at the lower crown or nape

What is applied A small amount of the prepared formula The actual mixed formula

Negative / positive Negative result — no redness, itching, blistering or swelling — means proceed. Positive means do not perform the service Not read as positive or negative; read for colour result and processing time

Legally required? Required by federal labelling on aniline derivative tints; the manufacturer’s instruction governs Best practice, not a labelling requirement

Important

NIC publishes the answer to this one. A sample theory question asks: "What should be performed FIRST before applying permanent haircolor?" — with the published key "Patch test." If an item asks what comes first , the answer is the patch test; if it asks what predicts the result , the answer is the strand test.

Caution

Aniline derivatives. Permanent oxidative tints contain aniline derivative dyes, which are the sensitisers. A prior uneventful colour service does not rule out a reaction — sensitivity develops with repeated exposure, so the patch test is repeated before each application.

2. The Other Preliminary Tests Worth Knowing

Test Purpose Method

Metallic salt test Detects metallic dye or compound dye from home progressive colour, which reacts violently with peroxide and can cause smoking, breakage or an unusable result Mix 20 parts hydrogen peroxide to 1 part 28 percent ammonia ; immerse about 20 strands for 30 minutes . Hair that lightens is free of metallic salts; hair that does not lighten has a coating; hair that discolours, smells strongly or boils contains lead or silver — do not proceed

Elasticity test Measures cortex integrity before any chemical service Stretch a wet strand. Healthy wet hair stretches roughly 50 percent and returns; hair that stretches and does not return, or snaps, has poor elasticity and will not withstand the service

Porosity test Predicts absorption and processing speed Slide fingers up the shaft from ends to scalp. Rough resistance means high porosity, which processes fast and grabs colour; a smooth glide means low porosity and resistance

Test curl (preliminary test curl) Before a permanent wave, determines processing time and curl result Wrap and process one or two rods, unwinding periodically to check the S-formation

3. Foiling and Highlighting

Highlighting lightens selected strands; lowlighting darkens them. Foiling is the isolation technique that makes selective work possible: a strand is placed on a foil, product is applied, and the foil is folded so the lightener cannot touch surrounding hair.

Why foil rather than cap or freehand

Method Description Use

Foil (off-scalp) Strands isolated in foil; product may sit against the scalp or start away from it Precise placement, strong lift, control over exactly which strands are treated

Cap Strands pulled through a perforated cap with a hook Even, all-over fine highlighting on shorter hair; no root regrowth control

Balayage / freehand Product painted onto the surface without foil Soft, diffused, sun-lightened effect

Note

On-scalp versus off-scalp lightener. Manufacturers classify lighteners for on-scalp or off-scalp use, and the strongest powder lighteners are off-scalp only . A foil does not convert an off-scalp product into an on-scalp one — the classification is about the product, not the wrapping.

  • The two foiling patterns SLICING WEAVING
  • ------ -------
  • A straight, thin horizontal A tail comb weaves in and out of
  • section is lifted whole onto the section, lifting alternate
  • the foil. strands onto the foil and leaving

the rest behind.

RESULT: bolder, more solid, RESULT: softer, blended, more

higher contrast, chunkier. natural, lower contrast.

Placement patterns

  • Pattern Effect
  • Full head Highlights throughout, section by section from nape to front
  • Half head / top and sides Lightens only the visible surface; economical and common for men
  • Face frame A few foils around the hairline to brighten the face
  • Teasylights / babylights Very fine weaves for a soft, low-contrast result
  • Procedure and safety
  • Complete consultation, patch test 24 to 48 hours earlier, and a strand test on the day
  • Section the head cleanly; work from the nape upward

Weave or slice the section, place the foil close to the scalp , and apply lightener from about a quarter inch off the scalp outward unless using an on-scalp product

  • Fold the foil in halves or thirds and seal the ends so product cannot leak
  • Check the first foils placed first — they have processed longest

Process by visual check, not by clock alone ; lift is judged by the stage of decolourisation, not by elapsed minutes

Rinse each foil thoroughly, then shampoo with an acid-balanced product and apply an acidic conditioner to close the cuticle

Tone if required

Caution

The three faults that produce complaints. Leakage — over-saturated foils bleeding onto surrounding hair, producing bleed marks. Banding — overlapping lightener onto previously lightened hair, causing a visible line and breakage at the overlap. Uneven lift — irregular section thickness or inconsistent product loading. All three are prevented at placement, not at rinsing.

Hydrogen peroxide and lightener are covered by A.A.C. R4-10-112(L) : products must be stored in clean, labeled, non-corroded containers; poisonous substances distinctly marked; a portion removed so as not to contaminate the remainder; and once dispensed, a product is not returned to the original container . Wear gloves — R4-10-112(H)(3) requires clean, fluid-proof, single-use gloves where any discharge is present or likely.