Study guide
3.6 Hair Coloring
Cosmetology State Board Exam Exam
Track your progress as you read
Finished sections get a check mark.
1 Introduction to the Cosmetology State Board Exam
1.1 About the Cosmetology State Board Exam 1.2 NIC vs State-Specific Exams 1.3 Exam Content Breakdown 1.4 How to Register and What to Expect 1.5 How to Use This Study Guide
2 Chapter 2: Scientific Concepts (35% of NIC Exam)
2.1 Infection Control & Sanitation 2.2 Bacteriology 2.3 Anatomy & Physiology - Skin 2.4 Anatomy & Physiology - Hair & Nails 2.5 Chemistry for Cosmetology 2.6 Electricity & Safety
3 Hair Care and Services
3.1 Hair Analysis and Consultation 3.2 Shampooing and Conditioning 3.3 Haircutting Fundamentals 3.4 Hairstyling and Finishing 3.5 Chemical Texture Services 3.6 Hair Coloring
4 Skin Care & Esthetics
4.1 Skin Analysis & Consultation 4.2 Facial Treatments 4.3 Hair Removal 4.4 Makeup Application
5 Chapter 5: Nail Care
5.1 Nail Anatomy & Disorders 5.2 Manicure Services 5.3 Pedicure Services 5.4 Nail Enhancements 5.5 Nail Art & Finishing
6 Chapter 6: State Licensing Requirements
6.1 How State Licensing Works 6.2 Training-Hour Requirements Across States 6.3 Exam Components: Theory and Practical 6.4 Application, Background Checks & Fees 6.5 Reciprocity, Endorsement & License Transfer 6.6 Renewal and Continuing Education 6.7 Scope of Practice & License Types 6.8 State Sanitation Rules & Discipline 6.9 Multi-State Comparison & Relocation Guide
7 Chapter 7: New York Cosmetology Exam
7.1 About the New York Cosmetology Exam 7.2 New York State Laws & Regulations 7.3 NY Written Exam Content 7.4 NY Practical Exam 7.5 NY-Specific Practice Questions
8 Chapter 8: Florida Cosmetology Exam
8.1 About the Florida Cosmetology Exam 8.2 Florida State Laws & Regulations 8.3 Florida Salon Requirements 8.4 FL Theory Exam Content 8.5 FL Clinical Exam Content 8.6 FL-Specific Practice Questions
9 Chapter 9: Test Strategies
9.1 Test-Taking Strategies 9.2 Preparing for the Written Exam 9.3 Preparing for the Practical Exam 9.4 Exam Day Checklist 9.5 Comprehensive Practice Questions 9.6 Final Review Checklist
3.6 Hair Coloring
Key Takeaways Explain This Topic AI
The hair color level system ranges from 1 (black) to 10 (lightest blonde) - know underlying pigments for each level
Complementary colors neutralize each other: blue cancels orange, violet cancels yellow, green cancels red
Developer volume determines lift: 10 vol = deposit only; 20 vol = 1-2 levels; 30 vol = 2-3 levels; 40 vol = 3-4 levels
ALWAYS perform a patch test 24-48 hours before oxidation color services - a positive test means DO NOT COLOR
- Filling replaces missing underlying pigment when going darker after lightening
- Last updated: January 2026
Hair coloring is one of the most requested salon services and a significant portion of the NIC exam. Understanding color theory, product types, developer selection, and safety procedures is essential for professional success.
- Color Theory Fundamentals
- Primary Colors
The three primary colors cannot be created by mixing other colors:
- Red
- Yellow
- Blue
- Secondary Colors
Secondary colors are created by mixing equal parts of two primary colors:
- Orange = Red + Yellow
- Green = Yellow + Blue
- Violet (Purple) = Blue + Red
- Tertiary Colors
Tertiary colors are created by mixing a primary with an adjacent secondary:
- Red-Orange, Yellow-Orange, Yellow-Green, Blue-Green, Blue-Violet, Red-Violet
- The Color Wheel and Complementary Colors
Complementary colors are opposite each other on the color wheel and neutralize each other:
- Color Complementary (Neutralizes)
- Red Green
- Orange Blue
- Yellow Violet
Application: To neutralize unwanted brassiness (orange) in hair, use a blue-based toner. To neutralize yellow tones, use violet-based products.
- Hair Color Levels and Tones
- The Level System
Level refers to the lightness or darkness of hair color on a scale of 1-10:
- Level Description Underlying Pigment
- 1 Black Red
- 2 Darkest Brown Red
- 3 Dark Brown Red
- 4 Medium Brown Red/Red-Orange
- 5 Light Brown Red-Orange
- 6 Dark Blonde Orange
- 7 Medium Blonde Orange-Yellow
- 8 Light Blonde Yellow
- 9 Very Light Blonde Pale Yellow
- 10 Lightest Blonde Pale Yellow
- Underlying Pigment (Contributing Pigment)
When hair is lightened, it exposes its underlying pigment - the natural warm tones beneath the surface:
- Levels 1-4 : Expose RED pigment
- Levels 5-6 : Expose ORANGE pigment
- Levels 7-9 : Expose YELLOW pigment
- Level 10+ : Expose PALE YELLOW pigment
Understanding underlying pigment is crucial for achieving desired color results and neutralizing unwanted warmth.
Tone (Hue)
Tone refers to the warmth or coolness of color:
- Tone Category Examples Effect
- Warm Gold, copper, red, auburn Adds richness, warmth
- Cool Ash, violet, blue Neutralizes warmth, smoky look
- Neutral Beige, natural Balanced, neither warm nor cool
- Types of Hair Color
- Category Molecules Lasting Power Lifts? Developer? Best For
- Temporary Large (coat cuticle) One shampoo No No Fun, no commitment
- Semi-Permanent Medium (partial penetration) 6-12 shampoos No No Blend gray, enhance tone
- Demi-Permanent Medium-small (deeper penetration) 12-26 shampoos No Yes (low volume) Gray blending, gloss, tone
- Permanent Small (penetrate cortex) Until grow out Yes Yes (10-40 vol) Full coverage, lift, deposit
- Hair Color Categories in Detail
- Temporary Color
- Also called : Color rinses, color mousses, color sprays
- How it works : Large color molecules coat the cuticle
- Removal : Washes out with one shampoo
- Uses : Special effects, temporary change, testing a shade
- Semi-Permanent Color
- Also called : Direct dyes, no-lift color
- How it works : Stains the cuticle and partially penetrates cortex
- Removal : Fades over 6-12 shampoos
- Uses : Enhance natural color, blend gray, add tone
- Key point : Cannot lighten hair
- Demi-Permanent Color
- Also called : Deposit-only color, no-lift color, gloss
- How it works : Uses low-volume developer to swell cuticle; deposits color
- Removal : Fades over 12-26 shampoos
- Uses : Refresh permanent color, blend gray, add shine
- Key point : Cannot lighten hair; deposits only
- Permanent Color
- Also called : Oxidation color, oxidative color
- How it works : Developer opens cuticle; color molecules penetrate cortex; oxidation occurs
- Removal : Does not wash out; grows out
- Uses : Full gray coverage, lift natural color, dramatic changes
- Key point : CAN lighten AND deposit color
- Developer (Hydrogen Peroxide) Selection
Developer (oxidizing agent) activates permanent and demi-permanent color.
- Volume Percentage Function Use For
- 10 Volume 3% Deposit only; opens cuticle slightly Toning; depositing darker; gray blending
- 20 Volume 6% 1-2 levels of lift Standard color; 100% gray coverage
- 30 Volume 9% 2-3 levels of lift Lightening; high-lift color
- 40 Volume 12% 3-4 levels of lift Maximum lift with color; lighteners
Golden Rule: Higher volume = more lift but also more damage.
Hair Lightening (Bleaching)
Lighteners (bleach) remove natural and artificial pigment from hair.
Types of Lighteners:
- Type Form Strength Best For
- On-scalp Cream, oil Gentler Full head; close to scalp
- Off-scalp Powder Strongest Highlights; not touching scalp
- High-lift color Liquid Moderate One-step lift and deposit (4+ levels)
Stages of Lightening: Hair passes through predictable stages when lightened:
Black → Brown → Red → Red-Orange → Orange → Orange-Yellow → Yellow → Pale Yellow
Understanding these stages helps you anticipate results and formulate correctly.
Color Application Methods
- Method Description Best For
- Virgin application Entire head, first-time color New clients; all-over color
- Retouch New growth only Maintain existing color
- Foil highlights Sections wrapped in foil Dimensional color; precise placement
- Balayage Freehand painting Natural, sun-kissed look
- Ombre Dark to light gradient Fashion looks
- Color melting Seamless color transition Blended, dimensional color
- Virgin Color Application
For darker (deposit only) results:
- Apply color to mid-shaft and ends
- Process halfway
- Apply to root area
- Process to completion
For lighter results:
- Apply color 1/2 inch from scalp to ends
- Process most of the timing
- Apply to root area (scalp heat accelerates processing)
- Process to completion
- Retouch Application
- Apply color to new growth only
- Avoid overlapping onto previously colored hair
- Overlapping causes buildup and damage
- Pull color through ends only in final 5 minutes if needed for refreshing
- Preliminary Tests
- Patch Test (Predisposition Test)
- Purpose : Check for allergic reaction
- When : 24-48 hours before ANY oxidation color service
- How : Apply small amount behind ear or inner elbow; wait 24-48 hours
- Positive reaction : Redness, swelling, itching = DO NOT COLOR
- Strand Test
- Purpose : Predict color result, timing, condition
- When : Before every color service
- How : Apply color to small section; process; evaluate
- Color Correction Basics
Common color problems and solutions:
- Problem Cause Solution
- Too dark Over-deposited; wrong level Color remover; lift
- Too light Over-processed; too much lift Fill and re-deposit
- Too warm/brassy Underlying pigment exposed; insufficient toning Tone with complementary color
- Too ashy Over-toned; too much blue/violet Add warmth; color remover
- Uneven color Poor application; inconsistent processing Correct sectioning; even saturation
- Filling
Filling replaces missing underlying pigment before applying target color (needed when going darker after lightening).
- Hair Level After Lifting Fill Color Needed
- Level 9-10 (very light) Yellow/Gold
- Level 7-8 (light) Orange/Copper
- Level 5-6 (medium) Red/Orange
- Level 3-4 (dark) Red
- Safety Precautions for Hair Color
Before Service:
- Complete consultation and analysis
- Check for contraindications (scalp conditions, metallic dyes, recent services)
- Perform patch test 24-48 hours in advance
- Perform strand test
- Wear protective gloves
During Service:
- Follow manufacturer's instructions
- Monitor processing time
- Check scalp for irritation
- Maintain proper ventilation
- Never add heat unless directed
After Service:
- Rinse and shampoo thoroughly
- Apply conditioner
- Document formula on client card
- Provide home care instructions
- Schedule retouch appointment
- Contraindications for Hair Coloring
- Contraindication Action
- Positive patch test DO NOT perform color service
- Scalp irritation/cuts Wait until healed
- Metallic/compound dyes present DO NOT apply oxidation color
- Highly damaged hair Recommend treatment first
- Recent henna Test strand carefully; may not take color well